Planes, Trains and Automobiles – Senior World Cup Arco

It’s been almost a year since I pulled on a GB vest to compete in a Senior World Cup.   I have trained hard and after the EUSA in Croatia was feeling confident on improving how I had managed in previous Senior World Cups.

After missing the official mug shot photos at kit distribution
I finally had an unofficial mug shot done. Great kit Berghaus.

Competition day was a fantastically sunny day, my first route was the second qualifier.  All was going well and then for some mad reason I lost my concentration. I was pretty disappointed but felt I could do better on the second qualifier. The second qualifier was a really good but sustained route. I felt I was climbing well, until I got pumped, which reflects on the fact I have been doing too much boulder training.  

After a discussion with the team management, who felt I had climbed well and came up with some areas for me to work on.  Although I was disappointed with my result, I feel confident that I can work on these.

Hot qualifiers 

Booking my journey home had involved a lot of searching for a cost effective way that which would fit in with a morning lift out of Arco.  Returning from Italy just after the August bank holiday can be complex.   Thank you Ellie and Dave for the 6am lift to Rovereto train station, then train to Veona, shuttle bus to Verona airport, plane to Gatwick, Gatwick express train to Victoria, underground to Euston (I have never been on the London underground before - boy is it hot down there and very weird place), Virgin train Euston to Manchester (first class as it was cheap when I booked), and a car journey back to Waddington!

European University Games

I’ve not blogged for a while; I have now successfully completed my second year at Sheffield University, I’m really pleased with my end of year exams and have put in for a Masters. Climbing wise I decided last spring I needed to get stronger (perhaps a bit more flexible) and for the first time ever I started to do a little bit of finger board work.

My first international competition of the year was the European University Games in Croatia. With more than 5000 athletes, for 40 European countries competing in 21 different sports, it was a pretty big event.  The games were opened by the president of Croatia.  Our team consisted of Jen, Luke, Joe, Sam, myself and team manager Steve of Sports Sheffield. After a very early start (or was that a late night?) we arrived to a toasty 34C.  We stayed in the designated athlete’s accommodation, male and females in different buildings.

A massive thank you to The University Of Sheffield for supporting and encouraging the University climbing team to take part in the EUG, in Zagreb, Croatia.  

The European University Games were run along lines of the proposed Olympic format, it was compulsory for competitors to take part in two disciplines (Combined) but we had decided to go for all three (lead, bouldering and speed) for the Super Combined;  it was going to be a very busy few days.

Information had been a bit sketchy before we arrived; we found the Russian, Slovenia and French Universities there with very strong teams. There were 47 men registered to compete. 

Bouldering

First day of the competition was bouldering qualifiers and finals. Run along IFSC junior format, I had never taken part in an international boulder comp before. We watched Jen in the morning, qualifying in 2^nd place - awesome. Then after lunch, when it had got really hot it was time for the males.   The team shared the beta and I found myself doing really well, topping out 6 in 7 of the 8 problems.  I made the finals by coming 9th.  Unlucky for Joe who came 12^th.

Awesome I’m in an international boulder final!   Coming out of isolation to look at the final routes I was faced with problems and only myself to solve them.  I knew things were going to be hard, I gave it my all, even making my fingertips bleed.  A bit more practice needed on my behalf required.  Jen had an awesome day she made 3^rd place. 

Lead Qualifiers and Speed

After a noisy night, it was lead qualifiers, today the males were up first, I really enjoyed the routes, the wall was steep and then into a roof.  The setters had made good use of volumes and change of direction. After last year’s EUG where I had slipped in the semi-finals I was determined to do better, I was pleased with my qualifiers going into the finals in 6^th place, and felt I would be able to improve on my place in the finals.  Great that Luke and Jen also made the Lead finals.

Photo by Luke Dawson

We all entered the speed comp, I was chuffed to make it through to the knock out stage- but being drawn against Thomas Lach, (Austrian speed climber) saw the end of my speed comp.  It had been great fun, Sam was the fastest of the Sheffield team making a 8.05s run (My best time was 8.83s). 

Back to rest and recover 

Lead finals 

We got a much needed morning off, so a quick bit of sightseeing then to the wall for the finals.

Final route looked great, up into the roof and then traverse.  I was placed joint 4^th but on countback was given 6^th.  I was disappointed as I was so close to a better place, however this was a great improvement on my place last year. I made fewer mistakes in this comp than I have in the past and I am now psyched for the rest of the season.

Our team came 5^th overall, awesome, and we are all really looking forward to the World University Games in China in October. Once again a huge thank you to The University Of Sheffield.