Senior World Cup Kranj

I was worried how I would perform as my hectic life has made doing all the training I want difficult.  However at least this was well timed for a few days away as it was reading week, so I would not miss too many lectures.  I gave Luke a lift to Stanstead on the Thursday night, to fly out on the Friday.  Friday night the running orders were announced and I was to be first up, with the difference in time I was to be competing at 8am UK time. 

Senior qualifiers

I had a good read of what would be my first route (2^nd qualifier), the plan was to go from the orange pocket, crossing left onto the crimp, then going right out to a sloper, then turning the left crimp to an undercut and finally crossing right to another sloper in the roof.  I was such an idiot, when I got to the first sloper I tried to left shoulder to the sloper in the roof – this was really stupid, it was too hard to undo my mistake and I fell.  How often do I make silly mistakes!  I was really disappointed; I passed the beta onto the rest of the team. I just had to focus on my other route.  This went much better, I stuck to my route reading and I could give useful beta to a decent height to the rest of the team.  I ended up 33^rd on this route, but 49^th overall.  It’s so frustrating knowing I have the fitness (so better nutrition is working), it’s just getting the brain to work.  Hopefully next year I will put two decent performances together at one of these comps.

For a lead climber I have been busy taking part in the Northern University Boulder Series (NUBS), I have done two of these rounds so far, my second round was an improvement on my first, (better route reading).

This weekend I took part in the Plywood Masters Bouldering Competition, and completely shocked myself by making the finals.  I was really worried about how hard the problems would be in the final, however I surprised myself again and finished 5^th overall.

Two lives in One.

Since my summer blog I have started at Sheffield University.  I was somewhat shocked to find my timetable had 30 hours of contact time, before I even start any own study.  On top of this there is finding time for cooking – or at least eating (and washing) – welcome to the real world!  Somehow I also need to fit in training, why else am I at Sheffield.

3 weeks after entering the real world it’s time for the BLCC, a nice 10 min drive to the wall (sometime things work ok), picking a few  mates up on the way.  Day one was the junior comp.  The day went pretty well, resulting in retaining my BLCC title.  This is now the 4^th time in a row I have won my category in the British Lead Climbing Championship!

Junior final route

Junior podium 

Back to student digs for the night.  Sunday dawned and I felt rubbish, I had just not recovered.  Three weeks of poor nutrition had finally taken its toll.  I was up 4^th and was not ready- great photo from Pete Wuensche you can just see I feel grim.  

Photo: Pete Wuensche

I was feeling much better a couple of hours later for my second route (making 7^th place) but my result of the first qualifier dragged me out of the final.  I was really disappointed not to make the finals, but learnt a huge lesson on nutrition.  It is very hard to be fully committed to two hugely time consuming lives – and trying to cram them in one life – and then remembering to eat properly.  I am pleased to say I am more sorted now.

Summer roundup – new and old things

Senior GB Team in Chamonix, photo John Ellison

After a couple of days rest from the Senior World Cup in Chamonix I travelled down to London for the Youth Open. It was boiling in London, reaching 34oC per the car whilst stuck on the M25. I qualified for the finals in first place and so was last out of isolation.  I almost topped out the final route, great photo from Paul Alexander from Tokyo Magic catching my foot slipping. It was great to be competing in the UK and in my age group again, the win gave my confidence a boast after the Senior World Comps.

Final route at youth open, photo Paul Alexander at Tokyo Magic

  

Next was something totally new and for fun – the Deep Water Solo comp in Exeter.  I had done no training with this in mind, have not even been swimming for ages, and never done any DWS.  It was a great fun to take part in. The event was also very well organised event that ran like clockwork. It looked a bit bouldery for me when I got there – the water did not look to inviting, I did not want to fall in too early.   I was pleased to top the first problem, keeping my shoes and chalk dry.  However, I let myself down with a lack of flexibility at getting my foot up on to a small screw on.  Fresh dry shoes on for the third problem (great to have a spare pair of Primes), all was going fine until I could not switch from a toe to a heal hook.  I was a bit annoyed with my climbing, but this is the first boulder comp I have taken part in for years, so 16^th place was not so bad.  Watching the finals with so many of my friends in the Devon sunshine was very enjoyable.

Next it was off to the Senior World Championships in Gijon, Spain.  This was run in tandem with the Senior Para climbing championships, and the whole event lasted a week in hot sunny Spain.  The event was held in a huge indoor arena and opened with the speed climbing, the next day it was qualifiers for the men.  The wall had been purpose built for the comp, and looked fantastic; the routes however looked rather difficult.  I was hoping to get higher than I did on both qualifiers, however on the first I missed a hold and on the second I forgot to move my feet.  The silly mistakes are by biggest problem at these senior competitions, hopefully with more experience they will become less frequent.  It was really impressive to watch the full time professional climbers competing throughout the week and the final was really exciting.  Watching and meeting the Para climbing team was impressive and inspirational.

Finals at Gijon

Other new things; I was mostly pleased with my A level results, and am off the Sheffield Uni to study Aerospace Engineering in September.  I have also been outside climbing a few times over the summer, it was good to chill out and do some fun climbing with a few mates outside.

Once again, a huge thank you to all my sponsors; without their help this would be very hard to do. SportsAid, Beyond Hope, Johnson Matthey, Ribble Valley Borough Council.

Competing in the rain – Senior World Cup Chamonix

After the technical meeting and publication of the running order we had a bit of a debate over how to share the one senior male GB competition vest we had (kind of Déjà vu moment to Kranj last year).  It looked like we would get away with it, I was up 22 on my first route, giving plenty of time for Ed to get the vest to me. However for my second climb the timing got tight for me to get my vest back, I got it in the nick of time - slightly damp, hope that was rain and not sweat. 

Qualifiers in the rain

Athletes' presentation 

I have mixed feeling over my performance on the two routes.  The first one, I was climbing well and felt comfortable, but just made a mistake and was spat off the wall. I was a bit fed up with being 71 of 76 as I knew I could have done better.  I focused on the second route and did much better – coming 45 of the 76, although oddly I felt I came of this due to a mistake again.  I was fairly happy with 62 of 76, especially considering the quality of climbers I was competing with.

Finals

Crowd watching the final 

Yet again I have learnt loads, and know what to try to focus on in training, and competing outdoor in the rain an experience.  Staying all together in one apartment was brilliant, and defiantly the way to go, especially with the wet weather.

Chamonix in the sun

View from the Tourist office

Looking forwards to the Senior World Cup in Imst, and then Senior World Championship in Gijon, with all the senior GB men.

  

A huge thank you to my sponsors:

SportsAid

Johnson Matthey

RVBC

UCLan

Whalley Physio

It would be impossible to do this without your help.