European Youth Championships

Another 4am start, and travelling to Luton to fly out with the GB Junior Climbing team to Gemozac, France for the EYChampionships. The team had a day to explore Saintes, which had an interesting looking cathedral, from a climber’s point of view (no disrespect meant). The doorway was pretty cool too, complete with gargoyles.

Saturday we left out at 7am to head for the comp. I had such a good time warming up I nearly missed my first route, only arriving as the commentator was yelling out for me! I’m sure I could have done better and come of when my foot slipped.  I had an hour before competing again. My next route was fantastic, which I really enjoyed, and did pretty well on, I was placed 12 for this route. My overall position was 17^th due to being 20^th on the first route. Not that bad being out of 43 competitors.

                          

                           Gemozac comp wall

Fire

Why are fire alarms so loud at 3 am. You just have to get up, grab a coat, and some trainers, and go for a wander.  How well trained we are. We were evacuated to the car park for 15mins whilst the fire brigade came, and then allowed back in. I was ready to get back to sleep. Morning came soon and it was time for the BLCCs.  It’s my first year in A age group, we were climbing the same routes as the juniors.  The first route was on the old comp wall which I have found hard before. However, it looked ok and I topped it out along with the 3 other GB members. 

Second route was on the hanger wall, this route was good fun with no clipping disasters from me this time.  Only 3 other boys topped this. 

Of the 3 that had topped both routes I was the first out of isolation, a tricky looking route up the middle of the hangar wall, all went fine until I messed up by not pressing out of a foot hold enough to hold a volume.  I was spat off.  The next climber fell foul of the same move. Then it was a tense wait to watch the last climber, who did not get as far. With the new rules in tie break, as we had both topped the qualifiers, time is looked at.  I was the quickest by about a good minute.

Next day I had decided to enter the seniors, just for fun, well we had travelled all the way up to Ratho and it was an opportunity to climb on more comp routes with the seniors!  I was fairly early up on the first route, mini jugs and some crimps on the old comp wall.  I was a bit cross with myself for only touching the final hold.  This put me in joint 7^th with 6 others.  The second qualifier was tricky, I watched many climbers fight their way up it. Somehow my brain just gave out on me and I made a mistake.  It was a really good experience to climb with the seniors.

Gore and Glory

‘Take’, my belayer gave me a bemused look;

‘Take’, crossly, the blood was dribbling down my leg and she would not like it when it started to drip on her.  I had just knocked a small scab off my knee, the scab stuck out at 90 degrees hanging on by a thread, a group of climbers clustered around to watch the gore with glee as I pulled it off. How can such a little cut make so much blood, it even dripped on my new Primes (oops).  Blue paper towels were used to mop up the mess and sticky plasters applied, the photo is three sticky plasters later – it just kept bleeding like blackcurrant jam!

The little pesky scab was from when I bashed my knee at Ratho in the Scottish Lead and Speed Climbing Championship. I had a good day doing both events, (speed for fun), as soon as I had finished climbing my final lead route I was straight on my final speed route – and that’s when I dinged the knee, it was quite insignificant then.  I came away with 1^st in the Lead and 3^rd in the Speed. So a pretty good result.

Clipping Heck

I was in the Youth Open at Ratho on 28th July. Youth A Boys were faced with a technical route across the old comp wall, and a powerful route on the articulated wall.

Embarrassingly I fell off rather early on the first route. The second went much better, until the penultimate clip which was on a long runner. There I am hanging by a heal hook and the last hold, clip the rope…which popped back, clipped it again….popped back out again, and again and again, finally the rope stayed in and I could take the final move to top out. The spectators seemed to enjoy my high drama.  Good result I’m in the final.

Final route again went smoothly until the penultimate clip, but which clip was it; the one to the left or the one to the right, I decided to climb on for a bit to see if it became more obvious, which it did but then it was tricky and I fell trying to make the clip.  Bit of a school boy error! Still I had done enough to get second, and learnt a valuable lesson.

I had a great day, managed to catch up with friends and watch some awesome climbing.

By Connor Byrne

(Photo: Nick Pope)